I can remember about 20 years ago we were travelling to dehiattakandiya via Mahiyanaganaya. The most picturesque part of the journey was 18 bends at udadumbara. The stretch of road between udadumbara Town and hasalaka Town was carved through thick jungle, scenic mountain views and several waterfalls, plenty of waters ways. After travelling 15 to 20 minutes on this bendy mountain road, you will suddenly be up against a vast mahaweli planes, stretching beyond horizon. And every time I cross over the mountain topass to left to right, my mind goes woooo, and breath holds spontaneously for a few seconds. In those good old days, the roads were narrow and slippery, and busses could not traverse 18 wanguwa easily. They would start forward until the next bend as the bus cannot turn they go on reverse. This had to be done many times, as you can see, it’s an amazing experience to go reverse on a slopy mountain. If you are not used to it, your adrenalin will rush all over your veins as the bus suddenly hits brakes or when it comes dangerously close to the edge of the road.
Nowadays, you are not getting this experience, as the 18 wanguwa is rebuilt, and even two buses can cross at each bend easily. Yet the views are still mesmerising. I would talk about it in reverse order from hasalaka as that is the way I took the journey.
Rathna ella viewpoint
As you leave hasalaka, straightaway you face up against the mountains, and from a distance, you can see the constructions in the middle of the jungle nowhere. And a pair of binoculars would be handy. What you see are the walls built on bends of 18 wanguwa. The area is a forest reserves Victoria Randenigala Rantambe sanctuary. And here onwards, the road is going to be winding, and driving slow is the best. When you travel up, you are gonna miss the Rathna ella waterfall viewpoint. This gigantic waterfall is seen only at a specific place, on your way to Gurulupotha junction. And you can only see this from the side mirror for a fraction of a second if you travel towards 18 wanguwa.
Rathna ella is the 14th highest waterfall in srilanka. Fed by Brooks in Nuckles forest range, it makes a breathtaking flight over huge boulders of rocks. Even from a distance about a kilometre away, I can see its beauty. Naked eye is the best as the camera can not capture every detail.
After a few more bends and paddy fields, you would start climbing the 18 wanguwa. Unfortunately, the 18th and 17th bends are not real bends. Due to the fact that the road was somewhat straightened during recent construction. But it just serves the purpose of keeping the legend of “18 wanguwa” alive. After the first two bends, generally, every bend is a real 180 degree turn. And as you go up the mountain better and better views of the flat terrain would be visible. Starting proximally from the minipe dam, sorabora Lake, and ulhitiya and rathkinda reserviors are easily seen. Generally, mahiyangana stupa and mahaveli river are not visible as these are covered by trees and mountains. On a good day, you might see the land up to the Indian ocean some 100km far, but rarely as the skies are not very clear.
Bend 2 is my favourite place. There is a little space for a vehicle to stop. It has to be vigilant as I often see some fallen rocks, especially when it’s raining. Still, it can be a dangerous place to linger around even without rain. Having said that, I have travelled even at midnight in heavy rain and through mist. Often very slowly, and with fear. Yet on a calm sunny day, you might enjoy a piece of watermelon from a vendor, often found on these bends. You can satisfy your taste buds while updating cone cells in your retina with green mountains in the background. Apart from monkeys and eagles, I haven’t seen significant wild life though, I am sure they hide in those busy forests during the day.
After passing each bend, you will come to a place where you can see both sides of the mountain. Which is still not the highest place on kandy Mahiyangana Road, which would be Hunnasgiriya. That’s for another day to explore. At the viewpoint you can relax and have a drink as there is plenty of parking space and formal shops. But I would not recommend this place for lunch or anything as often I see they are empty. Which can change in the future.
That concludes my little narrative on 18 wanguwa. But as you can see, the Sorabora lake is a different experience, which I am going to explore and write about here.
Sorabora Lake
One of the ancient lakes in srilanka Sorabora Lake is one of a kind, built during the era of King Dutugemunu 200BC. A man named Bulatha built this lake by his own resorces, without any involvement by the King or the government. According to the legened he invited King to open and release the first waters to the cultivation. After seeing the massive dam and his courage, King praised him as a king would do. Even today, the sorabora lake supplies paddy fields as far as your eyes can see.
The visit to sorabora Lake is easily done as its close vicinity to Mahiyanganaya town. The road to the lake stretch across the paddy fields. During weekends, and on public holidays, it is going to be busy as students and people on pilgrimage to Mahiyangana temple are going to be there. And a bathing suit would be handy on a hot sunny day, if not you should not forget your cap and an umbrella. Although you are up against this vast waterbody the breeze is not enough to reduce the tropical heat. Best way is to have a bath. The
The sluice Gate or sorowwa of Sorabora lake is carved through a solid rock, which is not seen anywhere else. Hence the normal Bisokotwa which controls the water pressure in other tanks against eroding the embankment is not there in this ancient lake. Once you climbed up the hill, you will see the vast lake which stretch as far as you can see. On the other side the Knuckles mountain range with clear view of 18 wanguwa will be there. And if you wish there are plenty of boats giving a ride, which you can try. Generally they prefer a group of 10 -15.
For most of the visitors the Sorabora journey ends there. But if you have young legs, I suggest you walk the bank all the way up to the other sluice on the north side. Once you passed gigantic trees, you will see the similar sluice but this time with a bisokotuwa. Showing that is more recent addition to the lake. This is where I captured some fishermen laying there nets, early morning.
Of course you can avoid sun if you travel early morning or late afternoon, but one has to be careful as water in these parts always attract animals, and elephants are not friendly in wild. There are plenty of vendors selling umbrllas hats and various toys, even drinks. Which you can try on your way home.
Silent observer 
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